Plaintain T-shirt

Hi everyone

After looking back through my blog posts and the items I have made, I realised how bad I am at actually blogging about my items (which is the whole point of this blog haha)
I last blogged in Oct 2015 - how bad am I, just as well I am better at sewing than I am blogging.
From now on I am aiming to blog all my handmade items (hopefully within a couple of weeks of making them)

I am going to start with my latest make - the plantain t-shirt by deer and doe.
This is a free to download pattern. The pattern has options for short, long and 3/4 sleeves plus elbow patches.

I had seen a lot of versions made by various people I follow on social media and liked the look of it.
I purchased some cheap jersey to try it out for myself but as I have always had problems with my overlocker it had been pushed to the back of my to make list.
After buying a new overlocker (the Brother 104D - more of which in another post another time)
I decided to take the plunge.

I made the size 44 based on the measurements and was pleasantly surprised to find it fit first time with no adjustments required.
I made the short sleeved version using this jersey from Calico laine - my version used about 1m of fabric.
I used my overlocker to sew all the internal seams, including attaching the neckband. Me and my overlocker had a bit of a power struggle at this point so the neckband is not the same width all the way around.
I used my sewing machine and a twin needle to do the top stitching around the neckband and for the arm bands and hem.
All together the t-shirt took me about 2 hours to make with all the faffing with the overlocker.

Next time I will take more care when applying the neckband.
Making this t-shirt also made me aware how much I need to buy some jersey tools - ballpoint needles, ballpoint pins and spray starch (to control the edges of the jersey curling)

All in all I am please with the finished item and even though it was a trial run I am planning on wearing the finished t-shirt (even if only to bed )
I am also planning on making many more versions - the fabric for the next one has already been put on the cutting table ready.

Here's a couple of photo's of the finished t-shirt. I will try to get some better ones of me wearing it when the light is better.

Collette sorbetto top.

I know this post has been a while in coming but here it is. I first posted about Colette sorbetto top here. 

Since the last post I have been procrastinating about how to finish the top, whether or not to add sleeves or to bias bind as per the pattern. I then came across some wide satin ribbon in my stash and decided to use that to finish the neckline and to add sleeves.
I didn't have enough ribbon to finish the hem as well as the neckline so I just used a double row of stitching.

Pattern Used: Colette sorbetto (free download) and Sorbetto sleeve (free download)
Fabric used: White linen from stash

I cut a size 16 in accordance with the measurement given but I then had to take in the side seams by a total of 6.5cms. If I had done the sleeveless option I would also have needed to raise the underarm seam.
If you are in the UK when checking measurements and cutting the pattern ensure you double check your size as this is an American pattern and sizes vary. Also check the test square before printing the whole pattern or your sizing will be completely out - don't ask me how I know this.
Apart from these alterations it was a near perfect fit. I think next time I will cut a smaller size.

I made the sleeve using the pattern from sew weekly. This pattern doesn't state what size it is made for so I made a mock up first. I had to add 5cm at the shoulder seam tapering back to the original size at the underarm seam. To do this I used the slash and spread method. I also added 3cms to the sleeve length as I prefer to cover the tops of my arms.

This is a pretty quick pattern to complete once you have the fit correct. I suggest you make a toile (mock up) first. It took me longer to decide how to finish the top than any part of construction. If I would have made it straight through it would have taken me about 2 days but I am quite slow at sewing as I like to make everything perfect (or perfect to me anyway.)

The only problems I had whilst sewing this top was with my sewing machine. My Brother computerised machine had a slight argument with the linen I was using and just wouldn't sew nice seams so out came my trusty old mechanical Toyota machine which had no problems at all with the linen. 

I really like this pattern and will definitely be making some more. There are so many variations of this top and so much inspiration on sewing blogs like 7 variations at sew weekly. You can also just google Colette sorbetto to come up with plenty of variations.
Just some of the ideas I have thought of are: adding buttons, changing the hem shape, changing the pleat, different lengths. There are just sew many ways to personalise it. 

I think this is a good pattern for a starter project for people as it is so quick (as long as you can make decisions) and easy to assemble. The instructions from Colette are straight forward and easy to understand.

Here are a few pictures of my colette sorbetto top

Me wearing my new top.

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Me and collars are not friends

I hate collars - well making them anyway!!!!

About 5 weeks ago I made a muslin of K1699 (view b top).

All went well with the muslin sewing and it only needed 2cms adding to the centre back for a perfect fit.
I then adjusted the pattern pieces and cut out the good fabric.
Again all was going well until I got to the collar section and then it started to go down hill hence the reason the top is still not finished.

First off I didn't cut enough pieces - fine an easy problem to rectify.
Then when I went to sew the collar I couldn't understand why it didn't fit the neckline until I realised I had forgotten to add the 2cms to the centre back of the collar pieces.

New pieces re-cut.

Sewing the collar pieces together I realised I had ironed (yes ironed!!) interfacing to the right side (should have been on the wrong side) of one of the collar pieces. As this was the 2nd time I had cut the pieces I thought I would cheat and just take the interfacing off and add a new piece to the correct side. WRONG.

This is the result - 1 lovely soft collar and 1 stiff and unflattering collar.

Today I am attempting to redo the collar.
I think I can get away with unpicking the one stiff interfaced piece, re-cutting this piece and stitching back in without touching the rest of the collar.
Here's hoping, wish me luck.

Once this is done I will post a full review of the pattern.

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Girls denim dress

As part of my sewing I have always enjoyed upcycling garments to create something completely new. All my friends and relatives now ask if I would like their old items before they discard them, most of the time I just take off any fastenings (zips, buttons, etc) but other times I keep the whole garment, the only problem is that I now have a stash of old garments - especially jeans.

I have decided to start using them up or getting rid of them and started with this little girls dress.

To start I took a top that fit my niece to make a pattern.
I folded the top in half. Note - I didn't fold it on the side seams but at the centre. I then traced round the edges to create the pattern - don't forget to add seam allowance to your pattern.
I then led the jeans out flat. I left all the seams intact as I wanted to use the side seams as centre front and back decorative seams on the dress.
I pinned the pattern onto the legs of the jeans so the side seams became the fold, then cut around the other edges of the pattern. I then repeated this for the back piece.
Once I had cut the pieces out I stitched them together at the side seams. I bound the seams so that they wouldn't rub.
At this stage I done a quick fit check on my niece.
To finish the dress I used some pink & white polka dot bias binding. I applied this in one continuous strip by starting at one underarm and ending back where I had begun.
Buttonholes and large pink floral buttons finished the top opening to make for easy dressing.

This was a fairly quick and easy dress to make - the longest part was applying the bias binding.

W-I-P Colette Sorbetto

I am currently working on the amazing Colette sorbetto top. I had some light weight linen in my stash from a previous project. I didn't have much left so it has been sitting there waiting for the right project to come along, as the Colette pattern uses so little fabric this was the perfect match.

I haven't finished the top yet as I am adding sleeves as per inspiration from the sew weekly blog plus I need to wait to buy some bias binding as I didn't have enough fabric left to make my own.

Here is a sneak peak of my progress so far

Colette Sorbetto in progress

I will do a full blog post once I have finished the top.

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Review of Simplicity 2017

Back in June of 2012 I decided to make myself a new dress ready for a christening I was attending  - view the post here.



In this post I am going to review the pattern - this is my opinion only.

The fabric I used was one that I picked up at one of the sewing shows held at Shepton Mallet. I saw the fabric and knew I had to purchase some even though at the time I didn't know what I would use it for. As soon as I purchased Simplicity 2017 I knew I had a use for my fabric.

I made a mock up first as I have such an unusual body measurements but it was nearly perfect as was. The one thing I did make sure that I had correct was the height adjustment. The last dress that I made I forgot this stage so at the end I had to just hem it to the correct length which meant that the body of the dress didn't fit correctly.

I'm not sure what the exact fabric I used was but it was some type of polyester satin. As it was quite a thick material I actually skipped the stage in the instructions where it called for interfacing to be added as I thought it would just make the dress too thick.

Being a patterned fabric I made two patterns for each piece and then cut the fabric as one layer with the pattern side up so that I could see where I was placing the motifs. I wasn't overly concerned about the pattern matching at the seams just wanted to ensure there were no big motifs in certain areas (like the bust point)

I had to alter the pattern pieces slightly around the waist area, this was done before making copies.
Once I had cut the fabric the dress went together like a dream, the instructions are easy and straight forward to understand. The only slight letdown in the instructions was the section on gathering - if you haven't done this before then you may need further guidance from a book or video, etc.
I left off the ties as I didn't want the dress to be pulled in at the back but this is down to preference.

Rather than using my nice patterned fabric as a facing - the dress is faced with the same fabric as the outer  - I used one of my normal lining fabrics. Again my fabric was pretty thick so this was more to finish the edges of the dress. In hindsight when I make the dress again I will ensure the lining is the same colour as the outer as you can sometimes catch glimpses of it, especially under the arms.

I decided to add a lace trim rather than rickrac as I thought it would suit the type of fabric better. I purchased a coffee coloured lace with one scalloped edge. I then used the straight edge of the lace to follow the lines of the dress and hand stitched it into place using a coffee coloured thread. This part took me longer to do than the whole of the rest of the dress but it was worth it.
I didn't add any lace to the hem of the dress as I wanted the pattern to be the main focus at the hem.
I wasn't sure on the length but ended up going for just below the knee but am still unsure and may raise this to just above the knee.
I also had to add an underskirt when wearing the dress as the fabric I chose is clingy.

I am planning on making a few more of these dresses in cotton for the summer and would recommend it to anyone both experienced and new dressmakers alike.

Back view of dress

Close up detail of the lace trim.

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Making something for myself.

I have finally caught up with all my waiting family alterations - thanks to the extended bank holiday.
I did also spend one of the days baking cakes and Viennese fingers which went down well with the family.

Once I had finished all the alterations I cut out the muslin to make a mock up of the dress I am making for myself.
I didn't actually get chance to sew it together until yesterday due to the extended bank holiday meaning we were extra busy at my day job as we were closed 2 extra days.

The dress I am making is this simplicity pattern and I plan to make it in this fabric.

Sewing the muslin together was quick and easy - except when I had the pieces wrong sides together so had to unpick and re-sew. After that everything went together really quickly.
I was pleasantly surprised when I put the dress on to find that the fit was nearly perfect. I say nearly as I have such a small waist measurement compared to hips that everything needs some type of alteration. (my waist measures 32inches, my hips 45inches)

I have got to take each side seam in by about 2 inches from just under the waist to the underarm.

I will add pictures of the mock up when I have them on the PC  and also post updates as the dress progresses.

I have also finished my 1st ever quilt so will be adding a new post about that in the next week.              
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Cape

I was asked by a work colleague if I could make his partner a cape. She wanted it in the style of a Jedi Cape from star wars. They supplied me this pattern

She wanted to be able to wear it all year round when she went out for dinner, to a party etc. Even though it would only be for special occasions it would still need to be warm enough to wear in winter but cool enough for summer. To accomplish this rather than lining the cape as the pattern says I made 2 separate capes. One was made from black polycotton. The other was made from black fleece.
This is the outer layer made from polycotton.

With hood up

With hood down

This is the inner layer made from black fleece. This section has no hood.

Inner section of cape

I then added poppers around the neckline seam on both sections of the cape so that they could be joined together, this way just the outer can be worn in summer but both in winter.

Poppers to hold both layers together.

This is the final cape - I didn't have my mannequin handy to take photos so had to hang it over the edge of the kitchen door.

Both layers together.

 Close up of the hood.

This was an easy pattern to make and I enjoyed doing something different to what I had done before. I learnt some new techniques working on different fabrics. I am thinking of making one in satin but just lining it not adding a detachable layer.

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Design Ideas

I have been having a play around with some different dress bodice designs this evening.
A couple of months ago I made myself a mini mannequin so I have used that and some scraps of fabric that I have to drape some ideas that I have had in my mind for a while.
I am happy with the one idea and am now going to buy some satin as it will need lining due to being made from chiffon.It will be made from a plain red chiffon as an evening/bridesmaid dress. I am also on the lookout for some gems/stones as I am going to make the shoulder a big feature. (pictures are below)
The back of the dress will be straight across with either a zip fastening or buttons (haven't decided which yet). There will also be the option of having an inner corset to give shaping to the body. The skirt of the dress will be available in either knee length or floor length and will be A line in shape so will skim the body.
The second idea wasn't quite what I had imagined so I am going to see if I can tweak it slightly before I purchase any fabric.

Please let me know what you think of the designs.

Close up of shoulder detail. Across the ruching will
be stones/gems to make a feature of shoulder.



Another view of shoulder detail



Basic shape idea of dress



shoulder design idea - not sure about this as wanted lower fabric to lay flat



A different option for shoulder detail



close up of shoulder detail

Where to start

I have decided to make myself a whole new summer wardrobe., mainly dresses and skirts. Now normally I live in tracksuit bottoms and football shirts but I have decided that it is time for a change.
Before I had my operation I had an hourglass figure but never really appreciated it. However after putting on weight and slowly losing it I am getting this figure back again and this time I am going to appreciate it and to do this I am changing my wardrobe.
The only problem I am having is deciding which pattern to try first. I also have some of my own designs that I would like to try. I am drawn towards vintage styles that have very defined waists.
I have managed to narrow my list of patterns down to about 50 LOL.

What is your favourite pattern and which would you recommend?

McCalls M5319

I have a couple of special occasions to go to this year but due to an operation last year I have gone up in clothes size so none of my dresses fit me at the moment (am on my way back to previous size but that is for another blog)
I decided I would make myself this dress
http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m5319-products-4899.php?page_id=521 (I am doing view A)

Going by the measurements on the pattern envelope I had to make a size 16 which I knew would be too big around the waist (I have a small waist even though the rest of me is larger LOL)
I have made the mock up of the dress out of calico (will add photos later) and had a fitting this morning.
The fit was quite good everywhere except, as I thought, on the waist. I have to take it in by 1cm under each arm as the underarms were gaping and then need to lose 2cms each side at the waist. 
I am making the dress out of petrol blue taffeta which has pale peach embroidered flowers all over it. Instead of adding a lace panel under the bust I am going to be using a plain petrol blue taffeta.
I haven't decided on the length yet, the toile was just below my knees but I can't decide whether to leave it that length or shorten to just above the knee.

Will post updates and progress as it happens.
Has anyone else made this dress, if so how did it go?

before being pinned for alteration front view



before being pinned for alteration back view

after being pinned for alteration front view

close up view of front pinned alterations.